México Deluxe -- Part Three (briefly) MEXICO CITY

Castillo Chapultepec, the fabled Halls of Montezuma

From the halls of Montezuma is, of course, the first line of the Marines' Hymn, commemorating the 1847 Battle of Chapultepec, which ended the Mexican-American War.  Chapultepec Castle stands atop a 200 foot tall hill in the center of modern day Parque Chapultepec in the heart of Mexico City but the hill has been a military stronghold dating back through time immemorial.  El Castillo Chapultepec is today a jewel among the many museums in Mexico City.

As you walk in through the Bosque Chapultepec toward the castle you see this monument dedicated to the six legendary Niños Heroes of the Battle of Chapultepec.  (More on them later)

It pays to be early and beat the lines at popular tourist attractions such as the Castle.

Two hours later the above was a mob scene.

Many furnished rooms represent the occupancy of the Castle by Emperor Maximilian and later by Porfirio Diaz

Lots of stained glass made in Europe

Great views over Mexico City

This stairwell ceiling mural is by Gabriel Flores, depicting Juan Escutia leaping from the castle walls to his death, wrapped in the Mexican flag to prevent the flag from falling into U.S. hands.

Los Niños Héroes are a key part of Mexico's patriotic folklore, commemorated by a national holiday on September 13.


IN BRIEF, TO WRAP UP, in the last week we hit all the major must-see points -- the National Anthropology Museum, el Palacio de Bellas Artes, Palacio Nacional with many wonderful works by Diego Rivera, the Zocalo, the Museum of Modern Art with its Caravaggio (!) exhibit, and several others.  It was a busy week.  We agree our favorite of all was the National Anthropology Museum.

Aztec Calendar Stone

Rivera's mural in El Palacio Nacional depicting first contact of the Spanish conquest

Diego Rivera's favorite subject for his many, many murals was Mexican history. Here he includes a subtle comment by painting the eyes of the little baby looking straight out at you (to the right of front and center) as green eyes, clearly not a native trait.


Huichol artwork, supposedly inspired by peyote hallucinations.

Busy, busy

And finally, this playful Mayan-inspired 2004 sculpture by Nadin Ospina in the Palacio de Bellas Artes:

Doh!